Snowshoeing: the winter activity almost anyone can do!
Strap on a pair of snowshoes for the first time and there's a good chance you'll wonder whether it's going to be exhausting, hopelessly technical, or strictly for the athletic types.
It isn't any of those things. Snowshoeing is simply winter walking. The snowshoe is an accessory (sometimes an indispensable one), essentially an extension of your walking boot that lets you carry on exploring summer footpaths once they've disappeared under half a metre of snow.
It takes all of a few minutes to find your feet, so to speak.
We are the Nature and Mountain guides at Altimood, and every winter we take out dozens of people who've never worn snowshoes before. This article gathers all the advice we wish someone had given us before our own first outings (we weren't born in snowshoes, after all).
From choosing the right kit to tackling a descent, plus what to wear and the best places to start out, here's everything you need to know before heading off into the white.
What is snowshoeing?
A snowshoe is a piece of equipment that attaches under a walking boot to distribute your body weight and float on top of the snow (or at least prevent you from sinking up to your knees at every step).
The principle is ancient. In North America and the Alps alike, traces of wooden and leather snowshoes dating back several millennia have been found, used for hunting and travel in winter.
The modern version keeps the same idea but replaces wood with aluminium, technical plastics, or carbon fibre. Modern bindings fasten in seconds, and integrated crampons bite into hard-packed snow without any extra effort.
In practice, snowshoes allow you to walk through forests, across high alpine meadows, and into the backcountry where trails vanish under 50 cm of fresh snow. The activity is suitable from around the age of four or five, and works equally well for families on a day out or those looking for a multi-day traverse.
How do you walk in snowshoes?
Good news: walking in snowshoes feels almost exactly like ordinary walking. The technique doesn't take long to pick up, though a few small adjustments make a real difference to your comfort. The golden rule? Never step backwards in snowshoes (a fall is practically guaranteed).
Walking on flat ground
On flat or gently sloping ground, your stride stays natural. The one adjustment is to keep your feet slightly further apart so the frames don't overlap. There's no need to raise your knees high: a smooth gliding movement is plenty on firm snow.
Walking poles are enormously helpful from day one. They assist with balance, help you maintain a steady rhythm, and make it far easier to haul yourself upright if you topple into the powder.
Going uphill: the heel lift
Most modern snowshoes include a heel lift, a small metal bar that slots under the heel. You flip it into position with the tip of your pole basket. It raises your heel, reduces strain on your calves on steep ground, shortens your stride, and makes the climb considerably more comfortable.
On steep sections or hard snow, you can also use the kick step: stamp the front of the snowshoe into the slope to anchor the front crampons. When the gradient becomes too steep, switch to zigzagging up the hillside rather than going straight up.
Going downhill: heel first
On descents, most people's instinct is to lean back. Whilst this can help you stabilise in powder in the short term, it puts a strain on the knees over time. Staying upright, or even leaning slightly forward into the slope, keeps your knees working in their natural line. On hard snow, trust the crampons beneath the frame to grip the surface.
Traversing a slope
When you need to cross a hillside horizontally, your ankles are put under considerable stress. Use the uphill edge of the snowshoe to tamp a small flat platform in the snow. Use your poles for stability and keep your feet from crossing. On hard snow, rely on the crampons and accept the discomfort that comes with the ankle angle.
A word of caution: snowshoes are a superb tool for undulating terrain, but they have their limits. On very steep or heavily angled slopes, the flat frame doesn't grip the way ski edges do, and the leverage it creates puts real strain on the ankle. Progress can become tiring, unstable, and potentially hazardous.
If the route steepens significantly or becomes very exposed, it's far better to stop, turn back, or switch to crampons for greater safety.
From theory to practice: give it a go!
You could read every article on the internet and watch tutorial after tutorial, but nothing will replace actually getting out on the snow.
Snowshoeing is an intuitive activity: your body learns by doing. Clipping in, testing your grip on a gentle slope, feeling the weight of the frame underfoot, managing your breath on the climb, this hands-on experience will get you further than any written guide. Don't wait until you've memorised every last tip before you head out. Start on marked trails or go with a guide, at your own pace, and let your instincts do the refining.
Which snowshoes should you choose?
This is usually the question that causes most hesitation before a first outing. Ranges are wide and prices vary considerably. Here are the criteria that actually count.
Size based on weight
Snowshoe size is determined by your total weight including your pack. The heavier you are, the larger the surface area you need to stay on top of the snow.
| Weight (with pack) | TSL size (reference) | Advice |
|---|---|---|
| 30 to 80 kg | S (305) | Ideal for lighter walkers and packed snow. |
| 50 to 120 kg | M (325) | The versatile standard (the most frequently hired). |
| 70 to 140 kg | L (345) | Better flotation in deep powder. |
Note: In very cold, dry powder (without a firm base), you'll sink further. If you're between sizes, go larger.
Small frame or large frame?
- Small frame: Ideal for marked paths, packed snow, and moderate slopes. Light and less cumbersome, these are the perfect choice for beginners. If you're out in a group and want to keep the weight down, go small.
- Large frame: Designed for off-piste terrain and deep snow. Heavier, and require a slightly wider stance.
Hire or buy?
If you're heading out once or twice a season, hiring snowshoes is the sensible option: up-to-date kit, no storage concerns, and lower cost. If you're going out five or more times a winter, buying becomes worthwhile.
For brands, TSL (French-made), Inook, MSR, Tubbs, and Atlas are all reliable choices.
A reminder: for guided outings with Altimood, snowshoes and poles are included. You needn't hire or buy a thing.
Women's snowshoes: what are the differences?
Don't be too swayed by Men's or Women's labels. It's really a question of build and body type. Models marketed as Women's (narrower and lighter) suit any hiker, male or female, with a slighter frame, a narrower foot, or who wants a more agile snowshoe on narrow paths. What matters most is that your foot is held firmly in the binding with no lateral movement.
What to wear and bring for snowshoeing?
The most common mistake? Turning up in a ski suit. Snowshoeing is walking, an active pursuit that gets you warm very quickly indeed.
Clothing: the three-layer system
For your upper body, layer up as follows:
- A moisture-wicking base layer (long-sleeve thermal top, merino wool, or synthetic). Absolutely no cotton: it holds moisture and will leave you shivering at every rest stop.
- An insulating mid layer (fleece or a lightweight down jacket) to retain warmth.
- A protective outer layer (waterproof, windproof jacket, Gore-Tex or similar) kept in your pack and pulled on in wind or on the descent.
For the lower body: winter walking trousers or standard hiking trousers with thermal leggings underneath. Ski trousers are fine provided they have ventilation zips.
Footwear: comfort first
- Technical socks: Merino wool or a synthetic blend (ski socks work perfectly well).
- Ankle-high boots: Waterproof walking boots (Gore-Tex) are more than sufficient for day walks. Avoid Moon Boots or après-ski boots that are too wide and soft: they offer no ankle support whatsoever and pop out of bindings constantly on slopes.
- Gaiters: A useful addition to keep snow from creeping in at the top of your boot. Sometimes built into the trousers.
Essentials on you or in your pack (20 to 30 litres)
- Poles: Adjustable, with wide snow baskets.
- Sunglasses (Cat. 3 or 4) and sun cream: Snow glare can cause photokeratitis (corneal burn) even on overcast days.
- Gloves and a hat: Ideally bring lightweight gloves for the ascent and a warmer pair for the descent.
- Water (at least 1.5 L) and snacks: Cold, dry air dehydrates you just as effectively as summer heat.
Safety in snowshoes
Snowshoeing is still a mountain activity. The most common incidents aren't slope-related: they're caused by hypothermia, fog (loss of orientation), or avalanches.
Avalanche risk
The question of safety equipment (beacon, shovel, probe) comes up regularly:
- On marked trails or managed Nordic areas: Risk is handled by patrol staff, and safety equipment isn't required.
- In the backcountry (off-piste): The beacon-shovel-probe combination is essential. More importantly, you need to know how to use it. Carrying the kit without having trained with it offers nothing more than a false sense of security. And it's worth remembering: this isn't safety equipment, it's rescue equipment.
Before every outing, make a habit of checking the local forecast and the avalanche risk bulletin issued by Météo-France (risk rated 1 to 4 for walkers).
💡 Keen to get a better understanding of snow and avalanche risk? We offer a snow and avalanche safety course of one day, specially designed for snowshoers.
Where to go snowshoeing in the Alps?
The Alps receive generous snowfall, and several massifs offer less abrupt terrain that's ideal for beginners flying in via Geneva.
- Champsaur-Valgaudemar: Our home patch! Snowshoeing in the Champsaur takes you through pristine valley floors, magical larch forests, and sweeping views over the Écrins from high-altitude hamlets (1,200–1,800 m). There's a distinctly "Far North" atmosphere to it all.
- Ancelle & Chaillol: Family-friendly resorts above Gap, with well-marked and well-maintained snowshoe itineraries.
- Orcières-Merlette: A higher resort (1,850 m) with very reliable snow cover and long walks across the Rocherousse plateau.
- Dévoluy: Far less crowded than the big resorts, this massif offers a genuinely authentic mountain atmosphere. Well worth a snowshoeing day in the Dévoluy well away from the crowds.
- Villard-de-Lans / Corrençon: Situated a little further north in the Vercors, this Nordic area is an absolute benchmark. Its vast plateau is perfect for snowshoeing in the Vercors with no technical difficulty whatsoever.
When to go? The season generally runs from mid-December to late March. January and February tend to offer the finest snow quality, whilst March brings long sunny days with spring snow (firm in the morning, heavier by afternoon).
Going out with a guide?
For your first outings, going out with a mountain guide completely transforms the experience. Not because snowshoeing is remotely extreme, but because a local guide brings something no blog post can offer:
- Perfect route selection: They choose the day's itinerary based on actual snow conditions, the weather, and the group's fitness.
- Nature immersion: Reading wolf or chamois tracks in the snow, spotting wildlife, and hearing the stories behind the massif.
- Delegated safety: The guide manages navigation, avalanche risk, and pacing. All you have to do is enjoy the quiet and the views.
At Altimood, we offer introductory snowshoeing outings as either half-day or full-day experiences. Equipment (quality snowshoes, poles, and safety kit where required) is always included. For those who'd like more, we also organise multi-day snowshoeing trips with nights in mountain refuges. The only prerequisite for multi-day trips is being in good physical condition.
Frequently asked questions about snowshoeing
Is snowshoeing difficult?
No, it's the most accessible winter activity around a ski resort. If you can walk, you can snowshoe. It takes only a few minutes to find your balance. The three main things to bear in mind compared to a summer walk are managing the cold (layering up, avoiding excessive sweating), navigation (trails disappear under snow), and avalanche awareness. On marked snowshoe routes, none of these typically causes any difficulty.
What age can children start snowshoeing?
From around four or five on flat ground, with small snowshoes sized for them. The key is having a motivating goal: reaching a hut, following fox tracks, having a snack in the sunshine. From ages eight to ten, children can comfortably manage two to three hours on varied terrain. For very young children carried in a backpack carrier, bear in mind that they get cold far more quickly than the adult who's walking.
How fast do you walk in snowshoes?
On packed snow, expect 3 to 4 km/h (close to a normal walking pace). In deep powder, progress slows to 1.5 to 2.5 km/h and becomes very demanding when you're breaking trail. For elevation, an average walker ascends around 200 m/h and descends 300 m/h. The basic rule: always add 30% to your time estimates compared to a summer outing.
Do you need a beacon (DVA) for snowshoeing?
Not always. On marked trails or managed Nordic areas, avalanche risk is controlled and safety equipment isn't compulsory. However, as soon as you leave secured zones and venture under slopes of 30° or more, the beacon-shovel-probe kit becomes essential, and you need to know how to use it properly. Before any backcountry outing, check the avalanche risk bulletin from Météo-France.
