TMB Stage 4: Descent Through Val Veni, from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur

There is a particular pleasure in waking at the Rifugio Elisabetta knowing that the day ahead is largely downhill. The south face of Mont Blanc is still in shadow at dawn, the hanging glaciers catching only the faintest early light, and Lac Combal sleeps below in the still air. What lies ahead is one of the more quietly spectacular days on the circuit: a long walk down through Val Veni, the Italian flank that mountaineers have long called "the Himalayan side of Mont Blanc."

Stage 4 of the Tour du Mont-Blanc is not about dramatic col crossings. The drama here is lateral, you walk alongside the massif rather than over it. Italy's longest glacier, the Miage, stretches ten kilometres of debris-covered ice just above the trail. The Brenva face looms to the north-east. And at the valley's end, Courmayeur is waiting, espresso terraces, stone fountains, and that easy Italian warmth that feels genuinely restorative after three days on the hill.

We, the mountain guides Altimood, consider this stage one of the most rewarding transitions on the TMB. You cross from the world of high-mountain silence into a proper Italian town, swapping the crunch of moraine underfoot for the clink of coffee cups. Many of our British clients, flying into Geneva and heading up through the tunnel, find the arrival in Courmayeur unexpectedly moving, not just because the legs are grateful for flat ground, but because the whole character of the journey shifts here.

This guide covers the itinerary from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur in full: the Mont Favre variant, terrain figures, the geology of the Miage glacier, the history of the Brenva face, accommodation, and what to know before arriving in town.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 14.9 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 471 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1370 m

Stage 4 at a Glance

Note on stage divisions: in 7-day itineraries, this stage is often merged with the end of Stage 3, heading directly from Col de la Seigne to Courmayeur. The route described here starts from the Rifugio Elisabetta, the most common breakdown in the classic 11-stage version. Some guidebooks split this section further by adding an overnight at Maison-Vieille (Col Chécrouit), creating a shorter day.

Lac Combal and the Start of Val Veni

The trail leaves the Rifugio Elisabetta and drops towards Lac Combal, a lake that the Miage glacier's alluvial deposits fill in a little more each year. On a calm morning, the still surface mirrors the south face of Mont Blanc in a fleeting, imperfect reflection. The spectacle lasts only a few minutes before the sun warms the valley and the breeze stirs.

The lake sits in the bottom of a glacial basin edged with wetlands. The ecosystem is fragile: the peat bogs shelter rare plant species, and the trail follows the right bank to avoid the most sensitive zones. You get roughly fifteen minutes of flat walking here, a genuine rarity on the TMB.

The Miage Glacier: Italy's Longest Glacier

Nothing about the Miage glacier immediately reads as a glacier. No sparkling seracs, no yawning crevasses: this ten-kilometre river of ice is buried entirely under rocky debris, giving it the appearance of a vast, slowly shifting boulder field. It is the longest glacier on the Italian face of Mont Blanc and one of the largest debris-covered glaciers in the Alps.

That rocky blanket plays a counterintuitive role: it insulates the ice from solar radiation and slows down melting, which is why the Miage descends to a lower elevation than its "clean" neighbours. But the ice is absolutely there, beneath the stones, and it makes itself known. Surface collapses create temporary lakes on the glacier, and sudden floods have shaped the history of Val Veni on more than one occasion.

From the TMB trail, you walk the glacier's left bank without ever setting foot on it. Informational panels along the way explain the glacial dynamics. For walkers who want to get a closer look, an unmarked lateral path climbs the moraine and opens up a view of the glacier's chaotic surface, go carefully, as there are no waymarks.

The Allée Blanche: Walking Beneath the South Face

The Val Veni has an older name on historical maps: the Allée Blanche. This fifteen-kilometre glacial corridor, running east to west, connects Col de la Seigne to Courmayeur. It has been one of the Alps' principal transit routes since antiquity: the Romans used it to reach Gaul via the Col du Petit Saint-Bernard, a few kilometres to the south.

Walking through the Allée Blanche, the south face of Mont Blanc towers over you for the full length of the corridor. The contrast with the north side, the face visible from Chamonix, is striking: darker, more vertical, rawer. In 1774, the scientist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure explored this face with guide Jean-Laurent Jordaney and became the first to describe Val Veni's moraines scientifically, contributing directly to the coining of the word "moraine" in its modern geological sense.

The Brenva Face

Look north-east and the Brenva face dominates the view. Standing 1,500 metres tall, it is a mixture of rock, ice and hanging seracs, one of the great Alpine walls. It was first climbed in 1865 by Adolphus Warburton Moore, Frank Walker, Horace Walker and their guide Jakob Anderegg, a feat that ushered in the era of serious ice climbing in the Alps.

The Brenva is also known for its collapses. In January 1997, an entire section of the face broke away, sending two million cubic metres of rock and ice into Val Veni. The shockwave crossed the valley and struck the opposite slope. Tragically, two skiers in the valley below lost their lives, a reminder that this side of Mont Blanc remains a powerfully unstable mountain. From the trail, the scar from that collapse is still visible in dry conditions.

The Descent to Col Chécrouit and Maison-Vieille

After the flat section at Combal, the trail descends gradually into the valley. The landscape shifts: moraines give way to pastures, larches begin to appear, and you start to hear cowbells. Val Veni is an active summer alpage, and herds of Valdostan cattle move up here each season.

The classic TMB trail reaches Col Chécrouit (1,956 m) along a balcony path with sweeping views down the valley and over the Miage glacier. It is a pleasant stretch, steady grade, heads-up walking.

Refuge de Maison-Vieille (1,956 m)

At Col Chécrouit, the Refuge de Maison-Vieille is a solid resupply stop. The terrace faces Mont Blanc and serves what is reliably one of the finest Italian coffees anywhere on the TMB. Walkers who want to split the stage can sleep here; those continuing to Courmayeur have roughly 700 metres of descent still ahead.

Mont Favre Variant (2,433 m)

For those keen to add some elevation and earn a wider view, the Mont Favre variant leaves the main trail after Lac Combal and climbs to the rounded summit of Mont Favre (2,433 m). The panorama from the top takes in the Brenva face, the full Miage glacier, and the entire Italian chain of the Mont Blanc massif. The descent rejoins the classic route at Col Chécrouit.

This variant adds roughly two hours and 400 metres of extra elevation gain. It is well worth it in clear conditions, in cloud, the Mont Favre summit offers nothing beyond what the valley trail already provides, with considerably more effort. When conditions allow, this is invariably the route we choose when guiding the TMB: the view from the summit onto the Brenva face is one of the circuit's standout moments on the Italian side.

The Descent into Courmayeur

From Col Chécrouit, the path down to Courmayeur follows a well-graded forest track that winds through larches. The gradient is steady, with no technical ground, but your knees will notice it: 700 metres of descent over roughly five kilometres. Now is the moment to produce the trekking poles if they are not already out.

The trail emerges at the first chalets of Dolonne, a neighbourhood of Courmayeur, before crossing the Doire Baltée and entering the town centre. The shift from mountain track to pedestrian street is rather abrupt, a few paces, and you find yourself among boutiques, gelato shops, and café terraces.

Courmayeur (1,224 m): The Halfway Mark of the TMB

Courmayeur is not merely a stage town, it is a fully formed mountain resort. A historic destination in the Aosta Valley, it has hosted Mont Blanc's first explorers, the golden-age alpinists, and generations of skiers. The name is thought to derive from the Latin curia major, the great court, a reference to its medieval administrative role.

For the TMB walker, Courmayeur represents a genuine turning point. It is the first real encounter with town life since Les Houches (or Les Contamines, depending on your definition). There is a cash machine, a pharmacy, a launderette, a supermarket, and restaurants where polenta costs rather less than a soft drink at a mountain hut, a welcome reversal.

It is also the right moment to assess your kit, sort out any blisters, and take a proper hot shower. Of all the towns on the TMB, Courmayeur is the one where an unplanned rest day feels most justified when the schedule allows.

The Skyway Monte Bianco

From Courmayeur, the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car climbs in two sections to the Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). The rotating cabin delivers a 360-degree view of the Mont Blanc massif, the Grandes Jorasses, the Matterhorn, and the Grand Paradis. At the top, a panoramic terrace and an ice cave let you experience the high-mountain world without a rope or crampons.

It is a half-day detour with no relation to walking, but it gives an aerial perspective on the massif you are circling on foot that is genuinely difficult to match. The ticket (around €50 return) and summer crowds are the main deterrents. Our recommendation: go early in the morning, well before the tour buses arrive.

Accommodation for Stage 4

In Courmayeur

Courmayeur offers a wide choice of accommodation, from camping to four-star hotels. The most practical options for TMB walkers:

• Central hotels: several establishments welcome TMB walkers, with luggage storage and laundry facilities. Expect €80–150 per night for a double room in high season. Advance booking is advisable for July and August.
• Hostel / gîte: the Gîte Le Randonneur du Mont Blanc, in Val Veni, is a more budget-conscious option.
• Camping: Camping Val Veni sits at the edge of Courmayeur towards Val Veni, reachable on foot from the trail.

Along the Route

• Refuge de Maison-Vieille (1,956 m, Col Chécrouit): for those who want to divide the stage. Spectacular views, classic Italian refuge atmosphere.

Practical Tips for TMB Stage 4

Water on the Route

Water is available at the start (Rifugio Elisabetta) and at the Refuge de Maison-Vieille. Between the two, sources are scarce in midsummer. Carry 1.5 to 2 litres from the start. In Courmayeur, public fountains provide fresh drinking water throughout the town.

Weather and Conditions

This stage is largely downhill on a well-marked path. The main risk is heat: Val Veni, oriented east-west and enclosed by high ridges, can become oppressive in midsummer. Setting off early from the Rifugio Elisabetta lets you cover the upper section in the cool of the morning. Should a storm move in, the Refuge de Maison-Vieille provides shelter roughly halfway.

Supplies

The last resupply point before Courmayeur is the Refuge de Maison-Vieille. In Courmayeur, several supermarkets and shops allow you to restock for the stages ahead on the Italian side. This is the moment to pick up some Fontina cheese and Valdostan charcuterie.

Logistics and Access

Courmayeur is served by regular bus services from Aosta and the Mont Blanc Tunnel. Should you need to leave the TMB or require medical attention, the nearest hospital is in Aosta (roughly 45 minutes by bus). Seasonal shuttles run up Val Veni to Lac Combal in summer, useful if an injury or fatigue forces an early exit.

Frequently Asked Questions, TMB Stage 4

How long does it take to walk from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur?

Allow 5h30 to 7h of walking, depending on your pace and breaks. The stage is predominantly downhill (1,450 m of descent versus 480 m of gain), which places more strain on the knees than on the lungs. Add roughly two hours for the Mont Favre variant.

Is the Mont Favre variant worth the extra effort?

In clear weather, yes, without question. The summit of Mont Favre (2,433 m) offers one of the finest views of the Brenva face and the Italian side of the Mont Blanc massif. In poor visibility, the classic valley trail is already beautiful and will save your legs for the days ahead.

Can I take a bus through Val Veni to shorten the stage?

Yes. Seasonal shuttle buses serve Val Veni between Courmayeur and Lac Combal in summer. Schedules vary from year to year. It is a perfectly reasonable option if you are tired, nursing a niggle, or wish to preserve time for exploring Courmayeur. Check with the Courmayeur tourist office or the Rifugio Elisabetta for current timetables.

What should I do in Courmayeur when I arrive?

Courmayeur merits more than a single overnight. If your itinerary allows, a rest day at the halfway point of the TMB is genuinely worthwhile. Beyond rest: the Skyway Monte Bianco (Pointe Helbronner, 3,466 m), the Pré-Saint-Didier thermal baths (5 km away, reachable by bus), a stroll through the old town's cobbled streets, or simply a terrace and a plate of polenta concia.

Is the Skyway Monte Bianco worth it during the TMB?

It is quite a different experience from walking. Going up to 3,466 m by cable car provides an aerial view of the massif you are circling on foot that is hard to replicate any other way. The panorama takes in Mont Blanc, the Grandes Jorasses, the distant Matterhorn, and the Grand Paradis. Budget half a day and approximately €50. If you have one day in Courmayeur and the sky is clear, it is worth the detour.

What if the hotels in Courmayeur are fully booked?

Alternatives include Camping Val Veni (at the edge of town), the Refuge de Maison-Vieille at Col Chécrouit (above, at 1,956 m), or pressing on towards the Rifugio Bertone on the Stage 5 trail. In high season, booking at least a month ahead is the sensible approach for Courmayeur.

What's Next on the TMB

Courmayeur is the gateway to the Italian Val Ferret. The next stage climbs towards the Rifugio Bonatti, one of the finest-positioned refuges on the entire circuit, facing the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Géant. The variant along the Mont de la Saxe ridge delivers one of the most celebrated viewpoints in the Alps.

To see how this stage fits into the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide details all 11 stages, the variants, the ideal seasons, and full logistics. If you would like to experience the TMB with carefully chosen accommodation and a dedicated guide, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood distils the best of the circuit into a single week.

If you have come from Stage 3 from Les Chapieux, you already know what the south face looks like from the col. This stage brings you right down to its foot.

Stage 5 climbs from Courmayeur to the Rifugio Bonatti, with the spectacular Mont de la Saxe ridge variant facing the Grandes Jorasses.

Further Reading