TMB Stage 5: From Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti

From the terrace of the Refuge Bonatti, the Grandes Jorasses fill the horizon. Not as a distant backdrop or a soft outline behind other summits: they are right there, squarely ahead, the 1,200-metre north face watching you while you drink your coffee. It is one of the most arresting views on the entire Tour du Mont-Blanc, and it is what awaits you at the end of this fifth stage.

I have a particular fondness for this section of trail. It was here, during a tour through the Val d'Aoste, that I first encountered Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jorasses. Courmayeur sits at 1,224 metres. The Refuge Bonatti sits at 2,026 metres. Over 12.5 kilometres, the path climbs steadily with very little descent, gaining altitude through the Italian Val Ferret, a pastoral valley dominated by the spires and glaciers of the massif's southern flank. This is a quiet, uphill stage, well away from the bustle of Chamonix, where the TMB recovers something more untamed.

Two options present themselves: the classic route via the Refuge Bertone and the hamlet of Armina, through forest and along a balcony path, or the variant along the Mont de la Saxe ridge to the Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m), more demanding and achingly beautiful. This article covers both, together with terrain data, accommodation, and the story of the remarkable alpinist whose name graces the refuge at journey's end.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 11.2 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 944 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 176 m

Stage 5 at a Glance

A note on staging: in 7-day itineraries, the Courmayeur-to-Refuge Bonatti section is sometimes treated as a half-day that some guidebooks merge with the start of Stage 6 (Grand Col Ferret). In the classic 11-stage breakdown, it stands as a full stage, short but physically sustained owing to the continuous ascent.

Leaving Courmayeur: The Climb Toward Villair

You leave Courmayeur heading toward the hamlets of Villair-Dessous and Villair-Dessus, perched on the right flank of the valley. The Valdostan architecture is unmistakable: grey stone houses, stone-slab roofs, narrow windows. The steep lanes soon give way to the forest trail climbing toward the Refuge Bertone.

Larch forest dominates this opening section of the stage. The path gains altitude in steady zigzags, never becoming truly steep. It is a warm-up climb at a comfortable pace, letting you digest Courmayeur and prepare your legs for what lies ahead.

Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1,989 m): The First Viewpoint

After roughly 2h30 to 3 hours of climbing, the Refuge Bertone rewards you with a panorama that stops conversation dead. An orientation table on the terrace faces the Mont Blanc massif, and it struggles to name everything in sight: the Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m), the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4,748 m), the pillars of the south face. This is the first proper overlook on the Italian side following the long descent through Val Veni.

The refuge serves drinks and snacks, making it a sound refuelling stop before pressing on. It is also the point where the trail forks: the classic route continues along the balcony toward Refuge Bonatti via Armina, whilst the Mont de la Saxe variant heads uphill to the ridge.

The Classic Route via Armina

From Bertone, the standard route follows the eastern flank of the Val Ferret along a balcony path, through high pastures and patches of woodland. You pass the alpages of Sécheron (1,924 m) before reaching the Refuge Bonatti. The terrain is varied, the elevation gain moderate, and the views down the valley are constant. It is a thoroughly pleasant segment with no technical difficulty, best savoured at a contemplative pace.

Refuge Walter Bonatti (2,026 m)

The Refuge Bonatti is not just another mountain hut. Its position, on a balcony above the Val Ferret, facing the north wall of the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Géant (4,013 m), makes it one of the most spectacular locations on the entire circuit. The north-facing terrace gives a direct view of the Pointe Walker, the Pointe Whymper, and the Pointe Croz, the three principal summits of the Jorasses, less than 4 kilometres away as the crow flies.

The refuge was built in 1998 and bears the name of Walter Bonatti, an exceptional alpine guide born in Bergamo in 1930. The choice is no accident: the Val Ferret and the southern flanks of Mont Blanc are deeply tied to this man's story.

Walter Bonatti (1930-2011): A Life Above the Vertical

At 19, Walter Bonatti tackled the north faces of the Grandes Jorasses and the Piz Badile. In 1955, at 25, he completed a solo ascent of the south-west pillar of the Dru (3,730 m), a six-day solo route on vertical granite that secured his place in the annals of mountaineering.

In 1961, a tragedy unfolded just above the Val Veni that you crossed during Stage 4. Two roped teams became trapped by a storm on the central pillar of the Frêney: one Italian, led by Bonatti, the other French, led by Pierre Mazeaud. The storm persisted for several days. Four climbers perished (Andrea Oggioni, Pierre Kohlman, Robert Guillaume, and Antoine Vieille). Bonatti and the survivors dragged themselves to the Refuge Gamba. What he later wrote about those days in his memoirs remains one of the most harrowing accounts in alpine literature.

In 1965, he signed off with one final masterwork: the first winter solo ascent of the north face of the Matterhorn. He then left extreme alpinism behind, devoting himself to photojournalism and exploration across five continents. He died in 2011, at 81. The refuge bearing his name above the Val Ferret is a well-deserved tribute.

The Gervasutti Bivouac: The Most Improbable Shelter in the Massif

For the curious walker, the Gervasutti Bivouac merits a mention. This metal capsule with 12 bunks, installed in 2011 at 2,835 metres on a rocky islet amid the Frébouze Glacier, at the foot of the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, resembles a spacecraft set down on the mountainside. It is named after Giusto Gervasutti, a climber of the 1930s and 1940s, who in August 1942, with Giuseppe Gagliardone, made the first ascent of the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, a 750-metre route graded Extremely Difficult. In 1946, whilst attempting to free a rappel rope on Mont Blanc du Tacul, on the pillar that now bears his name, he fell and lost his life. The bivouac is not on the classic TMB route, but its metallic outline is visible from certain points in the valley.

Variant: The Mont de la Saxe Ridge to the Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m)

The Mont de la Saxe variant leaves the main trail above the Refuge Bertone and climbs onto the ridge overlooking the Val Ferret, reaching 2,584 metres at its highest. The panorama that unfolds up there is one of the defining moments of the Italian side: from Mont Blanc de Courmayeur to the Grandes Jorasses, past the Dent du Géant and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, the chain stretches across 180 degrees without interruption. It is the mountaineer's choice: demanding, but enough to render you speechless.

The variant adds roughly 600 metres of additional elevation gain and about 2 hours of walking. It is advisable under three conditions: settled weather with clear visibility, fresh legs at the start from Courmayeur, and no snow on the ridge (before mid-July, check conditions). In mist or poor weather, stay with the classic forest route.

This is the variant we systematically choose with our groups when conditions allow. The view of the Grandes Jorasses from the ridge, at that distance and altitude, has a clarity that photographs only partially convey.

A secondary viewpoint along this variant deserves attention: the Tête d'Entre-Deux-Sauts (2,729 m), reached by a faint side path, offers a plunging view into the glacial basin of Frébouze and the walls of the Jorasses in all their verticality.

Accommodation at the Finish

The Refuge Walter Bonatti (2,026 m) is the standout accommodation for this stage. Staffed from mid-June to mid-September, it offers bunkhouse dormitories and a few private rooms with dinner and breakfast included. The atmosphere is classic Italian mountain refuge: carefully prepared food, convivial dining, and a terrace you will not soon forget.

Booking is essential in July and August. The refuge fills up quickly. Reserve through rifugiobonatti.it at least a fortnight in advance during peak season, and longer for weekends.

The Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1,989 m) is an alternative for those who prefer to split the stage. You sleep at the halfway point and reach the Bonatti the following morning. Less dramatic as a finishing point, but more restful if the legs are feeling it.

Practical Tips

Water and Supplies

Water is available at the start (Courmayeur), at the Refuge Bertone, and at the finish. Between Bertone and Bonatti, water sources are scarce in peak season. Fill a litre at Bertone. For meals, leave Courmayeur with a proper breakfast inside you and plan dinner at the Refuge Bonatti.

Weather

The upper section of the stage, above 1,800 metres, is exposed to afternoon thunderstorms. Setting off early from Courmayeur (before 8 AM in peak season) allows you to reach the refuge by early afternoon, before clouds build over the massif.

Poles and Footwear

The classic route presents no technical difficulty. The Mont de la Saxe variant may have lingering snow patches before mid-July and some rocky sections along the ridge. Trekking poles and boots with good grip are advisable in that case.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 5

How long does it take to walk from Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti?

Allow 5 to 6 hours of walking for the classic route (via Bertone and Armina). With the Mont de la Saxe variant, plan on 7 to 8 hours. The stage is predominantly uphill, which taxes the lungs rather more than the knees.

Is the Mont de la Saxe variant difficult?

It is longer and higher than the classic route but does not involve any technical ground under normal summer conditions. The principal challenge is the extra elevation gain (+600 m) and the length of the exposed ridge. Before mid-July, snow patches can complicate the passage. A good level of fitness is sufficient, with no specialist equipment required.

Can you stay at Refuge Bonatti without a booking?

Outside July and August, it is sometimes possible to turn up without a reservation, but it is a gamble. The refuge is regularly full in peak season, particularly on Fridays and Saturdays. Booking online through the official website is strongly recommended.

When does Refuge Bonatti open and close?

The refuge is generally open from mid-June to mid-September, depending on snow conditions. It may open later in years with heavy snowfall. Check rifugiobonatti.it before your trip for the exact dates of the current season.

What Comes Next on the TMB

The Refuge Bonatti is the gateway to the Swiss section of the circuit. Stage 6 climbs to the Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m), the highest point on the classic TMB, and descends into Switzerland toward La Fouly and the Swiss Val Ferret.

To place this stage in the context of the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc article details all 11 stages, variants, best periods, and full logistics. If you would like to experience the TMB in comfort with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated mountain guide, our TMB in 7 days with Altimood condenses the best of the circuit into a single week.

You have just come from Stage 4, from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur: the night in the Valdostan resort is behind you. Ahead lies Switzerland and its cheeses.

Stage 6 takes you to the Grand Col Ferret, the highest point on the classic TMB route, crossing into Switzerland towards La Fouly.

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