Stage 6 of the TMB: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly via Grand Col Ferret

The Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) is the highest point on the classic Tour du Mont-Blanc. It is also a frontier, the second border crossing of the circuit: in a single stride, you leave Italy for Switzerland, swapping the grandeur of granite needles for the soft contours of Valaisan pastures. That change of scenery, accomplished in barely a few metres, is one of the TMB's most striking moments.

This stage concentrates a full day's walking into one go: the gradual ascent from the Italian Val Ferret, the col crossing with views of the Pré-de-Bar Glacier and the Grand Combin, then the long descent through Swiss alpine meadows to La Fouly. It is also the longest stage on the TMB by distance, which makes it tiring despite having no technical difficulty whatsoever.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 19.1 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 789 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1217 m

Stage 6 at a Glance

Note: this is the longest stage on the TMB by distance. The cumulative descent (nearly 1,400 m) puts considerable strain on the knees. Trekking poles are best kept to hand rather than stowed, particularly on the Swiss descent.

The Descent to Arnuva: Leaving the Italian Balcony

You leave Refuge Bonatti at first light, the Grandes Jorasses still in shadow ahead. The path descends first towards the floor of the Italian Val Ferret through the Malatra pastures (2,056 m), then reaches the farmstead at Arnuva (1,776 m) in roughly 1h30. It is a steady, straightforward descent across meadows scattered with gentians and rhododendrons.

Along the way, the Pré-de-Bar Glacier comes into sight on the eastern flank of the valley. This glacier, flowing from Mont Dolent (3,823 m), has retreated markedly over recent decades. Its snout, once level with the trail, has withdrawn far above. It is a sobering, plainly visible reminder of the glacial retreat taking place across the Alps.

Mont Dolent itself warrants a word: it is the summit where the borders of France, Italy, and Switzerland meet. A geographic tripoint at 3,823 m, invisible from the path but symbolically present throughout this transitional stage between two countries.

Refuge Elena (2,062 m): Last Halt Before the Col

From Arnuva, the trail rises to Refuge Elena (2,062 m), the last Italian stop. Allow about an hour of steady climbing. The refuge serves drinks and provides supplies. It is the place to fill water bottles and adjust layers before the final ascent.

Above the refuge, the terrain grows increasingly mineral. Pastures yield to scree and steepening grassy slopes. The last 400 metres of elevation gain to the col form the most sustained section of the day. Early in the season (before mid-July), snowfields may persist on the upper slopes. Nothing technical, but boots with decent grip are appreciated.

Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m): The Tipping Point

The col is broad, grassy, and windswept. You reach it after a little over an hour of climbing from Refuge Elena. The reward is twofold.

On the Italian side, behind you: the entire Val Ferret stretches out below, framed by the spires of the massif. You can pick out the Pré-de-Bar Glacier, Refuge Bonatti in its meadow, and further off the Col de la Seigne by which you entered Italy two days earlier. The whole Italian chapter of the TMB is distilled in that rearward panorama.

On the Swiss side, ahead: the landscape shifts dramatically. The lines soften, the colours turn greener, the slopes become rounded. The Grand Combin (4,314 m), the giant of the Valais, commands the north-eastern horizon. You pass from Italian alpine drama to a quieter, Swiss composure. It is a transition that words struggle to capture and that every walker experiences differently.

The col is also the highest point on the classic TMB (the Col des Fours and Fenêtre d'Arpette variants go higher, but they are not part of the standard route).

The Swiss Descent: Pastures, Raccards and the Swiss Val Ferret

The descent on the Swiss side is long (roughly 3 hours to La Fouly) but never dull. The trail first crosses the La Peule alp (2,090 m), where a mountain chalet sometimes serves drinks and local cheese in season.

Heading down towards the village of Ferret (1,700 m), you enter a landscape quite unlike anything encountered since the start of the TMB. The raccards appear alongside the path: small darkened-wood granaries raised on stilts, each pillar capped with a flat stone slab, built to store grain and seeds well out of reach of rodents. This is quintessentially Valaisan architecture, found across the canton from the French-speaking Entremont valleys to the German-speaking Upper Valais. Functional and handsome, they punctuate the Swiss Val Ferret with their dark silhouettes.

Arriving at La Fouly (1,593 m)

La Fouly is a small mountain village, a cross-country ski station in winter and a TMB staging post in summer. After the 20 kilometres of this stage, arriving in this quiet hamlet comes as a welcome relief. You will find a small shop, restaurants, accommodation, and a bus stop (La Fouly-Orsières line, 7 departures daily) for those wishing to shorten or rearrange their itinerary.

The atmosphere is a far cry from Courmayeur: no designer shops, no heaving terraces. La Fouly ticks along at mountain pace, unhurried and unshowy.

Accommodation at the Finish

The Auberge des Glaciers is the principal accommodation in La Fouly for TMB walkers. Dormitories and private rooms, dinner and breakfast included. Convivial atmosphere, garden with views of the surrounding summits.

Book ahead for July and August. Accommodation capacity in La Fouly is limited. Reserve at least a week in advance during high season.

Alternatives:

• Gîte de La Fouly: straightforward lodging, well situated
• Camping des Glaciers: for self-sufficient walkers, at the edge of the village
• Maya-Joie: B&B rooms at Swiss prices but with guaranteed comfort

Practical Tips for TMB Stage 6

Water and Supplies

Water is available at Refuge Bonatti (start), Refuge Elena, and La Fouly. Between Refuge Elena and La Peule (roughly 2 hours), there is no reliable water source. Carry a litre filled at Refuge Elena before tackling the col. The La Peule chalet sometimes offers supplies, but this is not guaranteed every day.

Weather and Timing

The Grand Col Ferret is exposed to wind and swift weather changes. Setting off from Refuge Bonatti early (before 7:30 AM) allows you to cross the col by late morning, ahead of the afternoon thunderstorms common in summer. In thick fog, waymarking remains adequate but progress slows: the col is broad and the path less distinct than in the wooded sections.

The final slopes below the col can retain snow until mid-July. Crampons are unnecessary, but poles help steady your footing on softened snow.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 6

How long does it take to walk from Refuge Bonatti to La Fouly?

Allow 6h30 to 7h30 of actual walking. The Swiss descent (about 3 hours) takes longer than you might expect from the map, because the trail winds at length through the pastures. With stops, budget a full day of 8 to 9 hours.

Is the Grand Col Ferret dangerous?

Not in normal summer conditions. The path is well waymarked, with no technical section or exposed ground. The sole challenge is the length of the stage and the cumulative descent. Early in the season (before mid-July), snowfields may cover the final Italian slopes, requiring some care but remaining within the reach of any experienced walker. On wet days, the trail is muddy and slippery.

Can you shorten this stage?

Yes, in two ways. At the start: sleeping at Refuge Elena rather than Bonatti saves roughly 2 hours in the morning. At the finish: from the village of Ferret (1,700 m), a bus runs down to La Fouly in 10 minutes (7 departures daily). Some 7-day itineraries combine this stage with the beginning of the next (La Fouly to Champex).

Is there a variant via the Petit Col Ferret?

The Petit Col Ferret (2,490 m) is a lesser-known alternative that passes closer to Mont Dolent. The route is wilder, with gullied slopes and scree. It is seldom used by TMB walkers because the Grand Col Ferret is more direct and offers a comparable panorama. Best suited to those seeking solitude who are comfortable on less defined terrain.

What Comes Next on the TMB

La Fouly opens the Swiss section of the circuit. The following stage leads to Champex-Lac via a shorter, gentler day, widely regarded as the rest stage of the TMB. Champex-Lac, sometimes called "the little Swiss Canada," offers a lake, rowing boats, and an alpine botanical garden: the ideal contrast after the high cols.

To place this stage in the context of the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide covers all 11 stages, variants, and logistics. If you would like to walk the TMB in comfort with carefully chosen accommodation and a dedicated mountain guide, our TMB in 7 days with Altimood distils the best of the circuit into a single week.

You have just come from Stage 5, Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti: the panorama of the Grandes Jorasses is still vivid. Ahead lies French-speaking Switzerland and its alpine cheeses.

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