TMB Stage 10: 7 km on the Grand Balcon Sud, face to face with the Drus

Seven kilometres. That is all Stage 10 of the Tour du Mont-Blanc amounts to - the shortest stage on the circuit. Yet it is the one that walkers mention first when asked about the highlight of their trek. The Grand Balcon Sud traces a balcony path facing the north flank of the massif, with the Aiguille Verte (4,122 m), the Drus, the Mer de Glace, and Mont-Blanc as a continuous backdrop. You ascend eleven metal ladders, cross the Reserve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges, and can take a detour to Lac Blanc - home to the most photographed reflection in the Alps.

Mountain walking guides, we have walked this balcony in every sort of weather. On a clear day, it is a procession of summits that stops you mid-stride. In mist, it becomes a quiet traverse through rhododendrons and larches, broken by sudden glimpses of glaciers. This article sets out the full route, the variants, accommodation, and a few stories the trail does not tell on its own.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 6.2 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 692 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 247 m

Stage 10 at a Glance

The key moment: eleven metal ladders, a chimney with footholds, and an exposed ledge, then you reach Tete-aux-Vents (2,132 m) with the full Mont-Blanc massif directly ahead. A 7 km balcony hung between sky and glaciers.

The Ascent: Tre-le-Champ to Tete-aux-Vents

You leave Tre-le-Champ (1,400 m) on a forest path that gains height swiftly. After roughly an hour of steady climbing through larch woodland, the path reaches the ladder section. Eleven metal ladders in succession take you up a rock barrier, followed by a chimney fitted with footholds and an exposed traverse. The passage is airy but well-secured, requiring no climbing technique. Hands are there for balance, nothing more.

At the top of this section, the imposing cairn at Tete-aux-Vents (2,132 m) marks the high point of the stage. It is the central junction: left leads to the Lac Blanc detour; straight on continues along the Grand Balcon Sud towards La Flegere.

The Grand Balcon Sud: A Balcony Before the Giants

From Tete-aux-Vents, the path descends gently across the hillside. On your left, the panorama unfolds east to west like a relief map made real: the Aiguille du Tour (3,544 m), the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m), the Aiguille d'Argentiere (3,900 m), then the Aiguille Verte (4,122 m) and the Drus (3,754 m) rising above the Mer de Glace. Beyond them stand the Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m), the Aiguilles de Chamonix, and the "Trois Monts": Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4,248 m), Mont Maudit (4,465 m), Mont-Blanc (4,809 m).

It is the entire massif distilled into a single view. Precious few trails in the Alps offer a panorama this complete, sustained over this distance. The balcony continues for several kilometres, passing the Chalet des Cheserys (1,998 m) before arriving at the Refuge de la Flegere (1,877 m).

The Drus: A Pillar That No Longer Exists

Directly opposite, on the far side of the valley, the Drus hold your gaze. Their outline has altered. In 1997, a seismic collapse stripped away part of the Petit Dru. Further rockfalls occurred in 2003, 2005, and 2011. The celebrated Bonatti Pillar - on which Walter Bonatti accomplished a solo six-day ascent in 1955, one of the supreme achievements in mountaineering history - simply no longer exists. The mountain reclaimed it.

In 1741, the Englishmen William Windham and Richard Pococke were among the first foreign travellers to visit Chamonix. Windham described the "glacieres of Chamouni" in an account that caused considerable excitement in London's scientific and literary circles. He already noted the Aiguille du Dru in his panorama from the Montenvers, though he confused east and west in his description. Their visit set off a wave of fascination that would transform a quiet Alpine cul-de-sac into the world capital of mountaineering.

The Lac Blanc Detour

From Tete-aux-Vents, a path climbs to Lac Blanc (2,352 m) in roughly 45 minutes (+220 m of elevation gain). The milky colour of the lake results from rock particles ground fine by glacial abrasion. The first basin is 3.30 m deep, the second 9.50 m. It is here that the Aiguille Verte and the Drus produce their most celebrated reflection.

The Chamonix guide Armand Charlet made the Aiguille Verte his personal obsession: he climbed it more than a hundred times by different routes. Standing at Lac Blanc, one begins to appreciate how a mountain can exert that sort of hold.

The detour adds approximately 1h30 to the day, return from Tete-aux-Vents. Those wishing to overnight at the lake can stay at the Refuge du Lac Blanc (2,352 m), which provides dormitories and meals.

The Reserve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges

The whole of Stage 10 traverses the Reserve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges, established on 30 April 1971 at Chamonix. Across 3,270 hectares, it safeguards one of the richest alpine ecosystems in the region. The name "Aiguilles Rouges" is thought to derive from the reddish hue of the rocks composing the massif. Entry is free. A visitor centre at the Col des Montets houses exhibitions on local fauna and flora.

The founding ethos of the reserve was captured in a single line: "We shall protect nature to protect humankind!" Half a century on, the Grand Balcon Sud trail stands as living proof: chamois, ibex, and marmots are regularly observed on the surrounding slopes.

Accommodation at La Flegere and Nearby

• Refuge de la Flegere (1,877 m): the standard end-of-stage halt. Dormitories, half-board, a terrace facing Mont-Blanc. Booking essential in summer (tel: 04 50 55 85 88).
• Refuge du Lac Blanc (2,352 m): for those who wish to sleep beside the lake and watch the sunrise over the Drus (tel: 07 67 56 74 14). You will need to climb back up from Tete-aux-Vents.
• Hotels at Les Praz-de-Chamonix: reachable by cable car from La Flegere (15 min). Greater comfort, wider choice of dining.

Reserve by March for July-August, particularly at the Refuge du Lac Blanc, which has limited places.

Practical Advice

Water and Provisions

Water is available at the start in Tre-le-Champ (Auberge La Boerne), at the Refuge du Lac Blanc if you make the detour, and at the Refuge de la Flegere on arrival. A few streams run early in the season, though they can dry up by August. Carry 1 to 1.5 litres. There are no shops on the trail.

Weather and Timing

The stage is short (3-4h without the Lac Blanc detour), allowing a relaxed start. The slope faces west: morning light illuminates the Mont-Blanc massif opposite, which makes for the best photographic conditions. The trail catches the afternoon sun in summer. The ladder section should be avoided in wet weather (slippery rock).

Difficulty

The eleven ladders and the exposed traverse are the sole technical concern. Walkers uneasy with heights can take a lower variant that bypasses the rock barrier (waymarked trail from Tre-le-Champ via the Col des Montets to La Flegere, roughly an hour longer). The remainder is a standard walking path, clearly marked throughout.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 10

Are the ladders dangerous?

No. The ladders are metal, fixed into the rock, and kept in good order. They are vertical or very steep, and hands are useful for grip. The chimney beyond has built-in footholds. The exposed traverse is the most striking passage, but the path is wide. In dry conditions, it is an enjoyable scramble. In rain, the rock may become slippery: take extra care, or use the lower variant.

Can you combine Stage 10 with Stage 9?

It is feasible but demanding. Linking Trient, Tre-le-Champ, and the Refuge de la Flegere amounts to roughly 20 km and 1,900 m of elevation gain. Some 7-day itineraries include this combination. In our TMB in 7 days, we handle this section differently to preserve your energy.

Should you climb to Lac Blanc or continue directly to La Flegere?

If the weather is fair and your legs are up to it, the Lac Blanc detour repays every metre of extra ascent. The reflection of Mont-Blanc in the lake is one of the best-known images in the Alps. Allow roughly 1h30 more (return from Tete-aux-Vents). If cloud obscures the summits, the lake loses its chief attraction.

What Follows on the TMB

From the Refuge de la Flegere, the next stage leads to Le Brevent (2,525 m), often regarded as the finest viewpoint on the TMB, before a long 1,500 m descent to Les Houches. It is the grand finale - the circuit closes.

You have just arrived from Stage 9, Trient to Tre-le-Champ via the Col de Balme: the return to France is behind you. To place this stage within the full route, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide covers all 11 stages, variants, and logistics. Should you wish to walk the TMB in comfort with selected accommodation and a dedicated guide, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood condenses the finest of the circuit into a single week.

Further Reading