TMB Stage 11: Refuge de la Flégère to Les Houches via Le Brévent

Le Brévent (2,525 m) is not the highest point on the Tour du Mont-Blanc. Nor is it the wildest or the most remote. But it is the summit from which the full scale of what you have just walked becomes clear. The entire massif stretches across the valley, from the Aiguilles de Chamonix to the Dôme du Goûter, with Mont-Blanc squarely in the middle. After ten days of walking around this mountain, the view is head-on, barely 8 km away as the crow flies.

Mountain walking guides, we regard this last stage as the final significant climb of the circuit. The ascent is steep and direct, the panorama is ample reward, and the descent to Les Houches (1,500 m of height loss, the longest on the TMB) gives your knees one last proper workout. In this article, we set out the full route, the stop at Refuge de Bellachat, the options for shortening the day, and a handful of stories about the first travellers who found their way to Chamonix.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 15.5 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 659 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1540 m

Stage 11 at a Glance

The defining moment: arriving at the summit of Le Brévent. Mont-Blanc is right there, 8 km away as the crow flies. Below, the Chamonix valley draws a green ribbon 1,500 m lower down. It was here that Dr. Michel-Gabriel Paccard, in the 18th century, observed Mont-Blanc through a telescope to plan the route for the first ascent.

From La Flégère to Planpraz: Continuing the Grand Balcon Sud

You leave the Refuge de la Flégère (1,877 m) heading south-west, away from the path you took the day before from Trè-le-Champ. The trail crosses the Charlanon alpage on the hillside, with the Mont-Blanc massif in constant view to the left. You pass below the slopes of l'Index (2,595 m), then the route curves around several hollows, including the Combe de la Parsa, switching between larch woodland, rock slabs, and open pasture.

Roughly 1h30 from the start, you arrive at Planpraz (2,000 m), the mid-station of the Le Brévent cable car. There is a refreshment kiosk and toilets. This is a decision point: you can descend to Chamonix by cable car (in poor weather or if energy is low), or carry on walking to the summit of Le Brévent.

Along this section you will meet day walkers who came up from Chamonix by cable car, considerably more numerous than on earlier TMB stages. After the relative quiet of the Swiss Val Ferret or the pastures of Alp Bovine, the change is noticeable.

Le Brévent (2,525 m)

The climb from Planpraz to Le Brévent takes about 1h15. The path goes through the Col du Brévent (2,368 m), marked by a cairn, then crosses a rocky spur fitted with two metal ladders (8 and 9 rungs) before reaching the summit (2,525 m). The passage is airy but well protected. In rain or after a storm, the rungs and the rock around the ladders are slippery: take particular care, and consider the cable car as an alternative. You can also use the second section of the cable car to go straight to the summit from Planpraz.

At the top, the panorama covers 360°. To the east, the whole Mont-Blanc chain is on display: the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m), Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4,248 m), Mont Maudit (4,465 m), Mont-Blanc (4,809 m), Dôme du Goûter (4,304 m), and Aiguille de Bionnassay (4,052 m). Below, Chamonix appears miniature. To the west, you look across the Aiguilles Rouges massif, Lac Blanc (where some walkers passed the day before), and on exceptionally clear days, the Jura in the distance.

It was from Le Brévent that Dr. Michel-Gabriel Paccard scrutinised Mont-Blanc to work out a route to the top. On 8 August 1786, with Jacques Balmat, he completed the first ascent. Chamonix was changed forever. The driving force had been Genevan naturalist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, who had been watching the mountain since 1760 and offered a reward to whoever found a way up. Balmat took the credit for a long time. It was only through the work of historian T. Graham Brown, in the 20th century, that Paccard was recognised as the true first ascensionist.

The Descent to Bellachat (2,152 m)

From the summit of Le Brévent, the path drops first through rocky terrain, then into alpine pasture. In 1h to 1h15, you reach the Refuge de Bellachat (2,152 m), set on a grassy ledge with a sweeping view over the Chamonix valley and the Glacier des Bossons opposite.

Refuge de Bellachat is the last halt before the long descent to the finish. The guardian serves straightforward, generous meals. It is a good place for lunch, or for one last night at altitude if you want to split the stage in two.

The Big Descent: Bellachat to Les Houches

This is the toughest part of the day. From Bellachat (2,152 m) to Les Houches (977 m), roughly 1,200 m of descent remain over 7 km. Walking poles are not optional.

The trail leaves the refuge across a steep grassy slope, loses 300 m in tight zigzags, then enters the Réserve naturelle de Carlaveyron at about 1,800 m. The reserve was established in 1991 to protect 598 hectares of old-growth forest and wetland. Its existence was far from certain: a scheme to extend the ski lifts towards the Montagne de Carlaveyron had been proposed, before being dropped in favour of the reserve.

The descent continues through woodland (larches, then spruce) to a turning for the Parc animalier de Merlet (1,500 m), where ibex, chamois, and marmots live in semi-freedom facing Mont-Blanc. The park is visible from the trail; a visit adds about 1h to your day. Beyond Merlet, the path joins a broader forest track. You arrive at the P3 car park (1,370 m), the first road access since the refuge.

The last 400 m of descent pass through forest to the platform of the Christ-Roi statue (1,200 m), erected in 1934 at the initiative of Abbé Claude-Marie Delassiat, the parish priest of Les Houches. The Arve valley opens up below. The final stretch goes through the hamlet of Le Coupeau before reaching Les Houches station (980 m). The TMB is done.

When Chamonix Was "Discovered"

Walking into Les Houches, you are treading the same ground as earlier explorers. In June 1741, two young English aristocrats, William Windham and Richard Pococke, set out from Geneva with an armed escort to explore the Chamonix valley. At that time, it was a cul-de-sac at the end of a mule path, virtually unknown beyond the region. Windham described the "Mer de Glace" (he invented the name) and the Chamonix needles in a letter that made waves in London. Several decades later, the writer and canon Marc-Théodore Bourrit, working from Geneva, published between 1773 and 1801 several editions describing the glaciers of Chamonix, with engravings that spread through European scientific and literary circles. Alpine tourism had begun, and Chamonix would become its capital.

Variant: the Aiguillettes du Brévent and Les Houches

For those who do not want the TMB to finish too quickly, a little-known variant extends the final day. From Refuge de Bellachat, instead of heading straight down to Les Houches, the trail follows the ridge westward over the Aiguillette du Brévent (2,310 m) and the Pointe de Lapaz (2,313 m), then on to the Aiguillette des Houches before descending via the Chalets de Chailloux (1,923 m) and Plan de la Cry (1,440 m). Allow 5 to 6h from Bellachat, with +200 m and -1,400 m. It is a ridge walk with unbroken views of the Mont-Blanc chain, well away from the busy paths. It brings you into Les Houches from the western side, on a gentler gradient than the direct descent.

Options for Shortening the Stage

Stage 11 is long (6h30 to 8h) and the descent is punishing. Several options allow you to adjust:

• La Flégère cable car: descend from La Flégère to Les Praz-de-Chamonix, then catch the bus to Les Houches (removes the entire stage, useful in poor weather).
• Le Brévent cable car: ride up to Planpraz or Le Brévent, then walk down to Bellachat and Les Houches (saves 600 m of ascent).
• Night at Bellachat: split the stage in two. La Flégère to Bellachat (3-4h), then Bellachat to Les Houches the following morning (2h30-3h).

Accommodation in Les Houches and Nearby

• Gîtes and hotels in Les Houches (977 m): the village has a good range of accommodation. After 11 stages, a proper bed and a long shower are very welcome.
• Refuge de Bellachat (2,152 m): for those who wish to split the stage or savour one last sunset at altitude. Booking advised (tel: 04 50 53 43 23).
• Chamonix: 8 km from Les Houches, reached by bus or train (Mont-Blanc Express). Greater choice of places to stay and eat.

Practical Advice

Water and Supplies

Water is available at Refuge de la Flégère at the start, at the Planpraz kiosk, at Refuge de Bellachat, and in Les Houches at the finish. The descent from Bellachat to Les Houches is long without a water source: take at least 1.5 litres from Bellachat in summer.

Weather and Timing

The summit of Le Brévent is exposed to wind and thunderstorms. If the weather is unsettled, try to reach the top early (summer storms typically develop in early afternoon). The descent faces south-west: in high summer, the heat in the forest can be fierce in the afternoon. Setting off from La Flégère before 7:30 is advisable.

Difficulty

The ascent of Le Brévent is steady but not technically difficult. The descent is the real test: 1,860 m of height loss puts considerable strain on your quadriceps and joints. Walking poles are essential. If your knees are suffering, consider the cable car for at least part of the way down.

Getting Back to Your Starting Point

From Les Houches station, the Mont-Blanc Express (train) runs to Chamonix (10 min) and Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet (15 min), where TGV services connect to Paris, Lyon, and Geneva. The Tramway du Mont-Blanc, departing from Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet and climbing to the Nid d'Aigle, also calls at the Col de Voza station (the one you passed on Stage 1). Local buses complete the network. If your car is at Les Houches, the circuit is done. If you left it in Chamonix or Saint-Gervais, the train has you back in minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 11

Can I avoid the climb to Le Brévent?

Yes, by taking the cable car from Planpraz. But the summit of Le Brévent is widely considered the finest viewpoint on the TMB. Skipping it means finishing the trek without the summit panorama. If your legs are up to it, walk up.

Is the 1,860 m descent really that hard?

It is the longest descent on the TMB. On your knees and joints, it is demanding, particularly after ten days of walking. Walking poles, a measured pace, and regular stops make it manageable. The forest gives shade, which helps in summer.

Can you combine Stages 10 and 11?

It is feasible for very fit walkers. Linking Trè-le-Champ, La Flégère, Le Brévent, and Les Houches comes to roughly 23 km with 1,750 m of ascent and 2,200 m of descent. Seven-day itineraries sometimes include it. In our TMB in 7 days, we plan this section with accumulated fatigue in mind.

What to do after the TMB?

Les Houches and Chamonix have plenty for recovery: restaurants, brasseries, outdoor shops, and the Saint-Gervais thermal baths are 20 minutes away by train. If you are travelling home by public transport, Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet station connects to the TGV network and Geneva airport.

The Loop Is Complete

The Tour du Mont-Blanc finishes in Les Houches, where it started. You put down the rucksack, glance up at the mountain one last time, and know that you have walked the full circle. Three countries, eleven stages, 170 km, roughly ten passes.

Stage 1 of the TMB, the one that led you out of Les Houches eleven days ago (or seven, or five), marks the beginning of another circuit if you are drawn back. To see this final stage in the context of the whole route, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc article covers all 11 stages, variants, and logistics. And if you would like to walk the TMB in comfort with a guide who knows every col, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood packs the highlights into a single week.

You have just arrived from Stage 10, Trè-le-Champ to Refuge de la Flégère along the Grand Balcon Sud.

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